Thursday, 27 April 2017

Scrapbook Page - Making a Cut File into a Sew and Cut File

Hello, hello, Karen here with a simple but very effective way to change cut files.

You Will Need:-
Silhouette CAMEO®
Paper (for backing the design)
Embroidery Floss

For this project I used this file

STEP ONE - Changing Your File. 

  • Change the size of the design to 11ins.
  • Under the Modify menu choose Release.

  • Select the outside of the shape, the central circle and the triangles around the circle.
  • Under the Line Style menu select a dashed line - depending on how long you want your stitches will determine which one you choose. 
  • Send to your Silhouette CAMEO® 
You now have a design with the hearts cut out and the outlines ready to stitch. 

STEP TWO - Constructing The Page

  • I stitched all around my design using two strands of grey embroidery floss.
  • Next I mounted this onto a piece of 12 x 12 paper.  I used a lovely pink ombre paper which beautifully complemented my silver thread.
  • In keeping with the silver theme I added a title, embellishments and silver enamel dots.
I am rather pleased with the end result.  Although, it took quite some time to sew around the design it was a quick and easy process to produce the sewing file.



Monday, 24 April 2017

Handmade by Stamp using the Silhouette Mint™

Hi! Bev here with a Silhouette Mint™ project I actually designed for my lovely mum.  It is a super quick project and the Mint machine and software is so user friendly, it makes it a very enjoyable one to complete!

What you will need:
  • Silhouette Mint™ Machine
  • Silhouette Mint™ Stamp Kit
  • Silhouette Mint™ Ink
  • Scrap Paper
Step One:

Open up a new page in your Mint Studio.  Select your mint stamp size and open a text box.  Write what you would like your stamp to say and select a font.

Using the fit to stamp tool in the scale option, select the text select the option to automatically fit.  It will ensure that all of the text is properly positioned.  Using a bumblebee design from the design store, select the eraser tool from the left hand panel.  Erase the unwanted bees and position the picture on the stamp.

Step Two:

Now it is time to send the stamp to the Mint and you do this by selecting the leaf box.

It will flip the image automatically for you so you do not need to worry about it printing the wrong way around.  Open the stamp kit box and feed the stamp into the back of the machine.

Once it has printed, break along the perforation and remove the black sheet from the cardboard.  Mount on the white block and apply ink onto the pad.  Once it has absorbed, use a scrap piece of paper to blot off all of the excess ink until you get a clean impression.

The stamp can then be used for 50 or so impressions before needing to be inked again.  I know this stamp will come in handy for my mum and I am happy to be able to share with you all.

Designs Used:

LW Splendid Fontby Lori Whitlock Design ID #70505
Three Bees by Nic Squirrell - Design ID #97230

Products Used:

Sunday, 23 April 2017

Cutting edge with Designer Edition- knife overview

Why upgrade to designer edition?

One of my favorite things that unlock when you upgrade is the selection of knives that are now at your disposal. While the knife in the standard edition is very useful, the extra options and functionality within Designer edition will have you slicing every edge on your projects.
   The straight knife remains the same cutting in a straight line with the options of solid or outline cut. By holding down shift while you drag the knife across you shape you will ensure that you get a perfectly straight horizontal or vertical cut.

 Then the fun begins, there are 11 knife types to choose from in designer edition.

The first new knife we will look at is Poly. This knife behaves in the same way a poly draw tool does, straight lines are created between a number of points. while these points can be positioned anywhere to create a jagged edge as in the picture above this knife will enable you to cut out solid shapes form your shapes as though you had used a paper punch. So to create a triangle you will create three points and then double click back on the first point. (It is the double click that tells the software that you have finished the shape). With your shape complete a process bar will pop up on your screen. On completion, the triangle will be cut out of the shape behind it.

I have changed the color
of the triangle to help you see it 
By default, this is done automatically when the double click is applied. But what if you would like to alter your poly before it applies the knife cut? If you scroll down in you knife menu at the bottom there is an opportunity to switch off the auto apply. 

with the auto apply unchecked you can now select the edit points button. when you click on the edit points button the nodes will become active again and you can now move any of the points to get fine tune your shape. When you are happy with the position of the nodes you will need to click back on your knife tool and with the triangle selected simply click on the "apply to selected knife" and the triangle is now cut and is now a separate shape.

These principles can be applied to the curve and freehand knives. As long as you have the Auto apply box unchecked Studio will not apply the cut to your knife line and the nodes remain editable.

The additional 7 knives are tools that will allow you to create uniform cut decorative edges with just a few clicks. Each works in the same way so I will use the Dovetail knife to demonstrate the actions and their effect on the style of cut. (just because I love it the most).
 Draw a shape on your mat to practice on.
Select the Knife tool and then click on the dovetail option in the left window. make sure the auto apply option is unchecked at the bottom of the knife window. Draw a cut line across your shape
 you will see that you have a perfectly uniform knife line of dovetails across your shape. This function saves hours of editing. don't like the size of tails? well, that's why we unchecked the auto apply. When the auto apply is switched off you can modify the height and width of the style of knife, in this case the tails. while the knife is still active there will be a slider bar in the center of the cut line. By moving the little "bubble along the slider you can change the width of the "tails".
Moving the slider to the left will increase the width of the "tails"

Moving the slider to the right will decrease the width of the "tails".

As well as the slider bar there will be a red dot close to the start of your knife line. This dot will affect the height of the "tails".

Click and drag the red dot away from the knife line increases the height of the "tails" bringing it closer will decrease the height.
When you have created the desired height and width on your "tails", with the knife line selected and the knife tool active, click on the "apply selected knife" as before.

 A perfect dovetail is now created across you shape. 

The knives in designer edition have saved me hours in editing. This is only a one of the options unlocked when you upgrade to designer edition but I am sure you will agree its a good one.

Happy crafting 

Saturday, 22 April 2017

Perfectly Positioned Sentiments on Vellum Overlay

Hello! Marie-Clare here with a little card tutorial and a technique that I will definitely use again.

A friend is attending a wedding in a beautiful, unusual setting today. She asked me if I would make a card for her to give to the happy couple featuring a photograph of the castle they are marrying in.

Here is my tutorial for using Silhouette Studio and your Cameo product to make a card with a printed vellum overlay, with the sentiment perfectly positioned on the bottom section of the photograph.

You will need:

  • Silhouette Studio
  • Silhouette Cameo
  • Photograph of your choice
  • Cardstock
  • Vellum
  • Printer
  • Double sided adhesive tape

Step One

Open Silhouette Studio and set up your page for a print and cut project. My cardstock is A4, so I have set my page size to A4 and turned on registration marks.

Draw a square and use the scale tool to ensure that it is the size of the finished front panel of your card. I wanted to make a 5in x 5in square card.

Add another square the size of your complete, unfolded card. Mine is 10in high x 5in wide. Then, use the align tool to align these two shapes centrally, and the small shape to the bottom of the large shape. This will form the template for my work.

Step Two

I want to ensure that my cut lines are set up correctly before I go any further. The large 10x5 shape will be cut out to form my card, but the small 5x5 shape is purely as a guideline for positioning elements on my card, so I want to turn off the cut lines on this shape. I used the cut settings window to set this shape to "No Cut".

For this finished card I will be printing two pages: one on cardstock, with the photograph, and another on vellum, with the words I want to "float" over the picture. I opened a brand new document in Silhouette Studio, and set it up the exact same as my first: A4 page, registration marks turned on.

Then, I copied and pasted the two shapes from the first document into the second. This will position the shapes in the exact same spot in both documents.

I saved the first file as "CARD" and the second as "VELLUM" to keep myself right.

Step Three

Working in the CARD file, insert a photograph of your choice to the file. In my case, it was this beautiful castle, but this technique works fantastically with family photographs or portrait style pictures.

Right click on the photograph and send it to the back behind your other objects. This lets you see your guidelines for the finished card. I changed my square guide's line colour to white because it would show up more clearly against the dark castle photograph.

Time to "shoogle"! Move your photograph around to find the best placement that you like. I used the 5x5 square to crop the photograph and see how the finished picture would look on the card front. I tried a variety of different setups:

I chose the crop that I liked the best (option 2) and made my final crop. This will now form the cardstock part of my card.

At this stage, make sure that you select the large 10x5 outline and set the line colour to None.

Step Four

Now, copy the cropped photograph from the CARD file, and paste it into the VELLUM file. Using the Advanced Options in the Fill Colour tab, slide the transparency down so that you can work over the top of the photograph as a guideline.

Use the text tool to write out the sentiments you would like to float over your photograph on the vellum.

Now, carefully position these sentiments in the "dead" space of your photograph. In my case, this is in the dark pathway and grounds beneath the castle itself. For family photographs, it might be the sky, or background, or over clothes. This will let you avoid writing sentiments over an important face or aspect of a picture!

Then, delete the photograph, and the 5x5 guideline. Select the large 10x5 shape and set the line colour to None.

Step Five

Your two files should now look like this:



Print both of your files to the appropriate media.

(I needed to use a handy tip with my vellum, which didn't really like my printer much - I used washi tape to attach the vellum to a sheet of A4 card to "trick" my printer into thinking it was just a sheet of regular cardstock!)

The vellum that I had was an old sheet I had bought, and it had little sparkles woven through it. I thought this would add a lovely magical feeling of stars over the castle photograph.

Your printed CARD file will look like this:

Step Six

Now, load your cardstock onto your cutting mat, and pop it into your cutting machine. Send the CARD file to your Silhouette, and it will work its magic. I used blade 4, speed 5, thickness 22 for this heavy cardstock.

Do the same with your vellum. I used blade 1, speed 5, thickness 10 for my thin vellum.

Score the card at 5inches, and the vellum at 5inches.

Run a narrow strip of double sided adhesive tape along the top of the rear of the cardstock. Insert the folded card into the folded vellum overlay, and your sentiments should be positioned absolutely perfectly in the "dead" space of your photograph.

I cannot wait to use this technique again with portraiture photographs. I think I might position a quote about little boys over a gorgeous photo of my son next!